Smokestack Restaurant, Thurber

I mentioned recently that I met Randy Brown, a “swing” country singer. His website has, among other things, a link to some of his friends, amongst whom are the Bennett family and their Smokestack Restaurant. At first glance, this seems to be nothing particularly noteworthy. If you delve slightly deeper, however, you discover that it’s located in the town of “Thurber, population 5”. It was once (around the turn of the last century) the largest town between El Paso and Fort Worth, and that’s a distance of around 600 miles, which is significant, even by Texas standards. It was a coal-mining town, owned and run completely by the coal company. As oil replaced coal as a cheaper fuel, the town declined, and has been a “ghost town” since around 1936.

Something to do while you're waiting for food

Fortunately, the town is just off Interstate-20, a major thoroughfare between East Texas and North Carolina, running for over 1500 miles and passing through Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama and Georgia. If the restaurant had to survive catering for the 5 local residents, it would have disappeared long ago. Judging from the clientele when I was there, it is visited by truckers, tourists and locals alike. It’s a traditional diner, offering traditional diner fare, and is well-known for its “chicken fried steak”. I think I’ve explained this before, but in case I haven’t (or you have forgotten), this is steak beaten to within an inch of its life, battered and breaded, and deep fried – that is, it’s “minute steak” cooked in the southern “fried chicken” style. If you like that sort of thing, this is exactly the sort of thing you’d like. It’s served smothered with southern white gravy (which is really odd for Brits), mashed potatoes and corn (although you can substitute fried okra). It also comes with a home-cooked bread roll, which is every bit as good as they say it is. Soft drinks, as in most diners, are “bottomless” – as soon as you get halfway through, they top it up. I had lemonade. The waitresses were friendly (and I mention this only because, although this is nothing surprising here, it is strangely unfamiliar in so many places these days); to while away the time between ordering and receiving the meal, they provided a solitaire game at the table (which could be purchased – and I did – at the register) – I’m reliably informed that this is a common game here, although I’ve never encountered it before; and, as I left, the waitress offered me lemonade to go. Such hospitality is rare anywhere.

Weatherford mural

I didn’t return on I-20. I headed north until I hit 180, and then east through Mineral Springs and Weatherford to Fort Worth. Weatherford had a couple of murals on the side of a western furniture store – and, as you know, I always stop for murals! “Western” furniture is typically chunky, primitive-style, wood and leather – in keeping with the surroundings.

Even though I’ve been coming here for four years, there are still places I haven’t discovered, and they are often on the doorstep – Thurber is only about 90 minutes west of my hotel. Beyond everything else, you can’t help noticing that going south in the US is like going north in the UK – the atmosphere seems more relaxed, and the people just get friendlier.